In the bleak mid-winter



Siberia

The view from my balcony window resembles what I imagine a nuclear fall out would be like.  Thankfully it is not radioactive dust, it’s snow and it is falling with real purpose.  It looks like I’ll be spending this Saturday in a perpetual snow globe.  January is bearable (only bearable mind) with the addition of good hearty food.  It’s bleakness warrants a culinary hot water bottle.  I actually cooked this last Sunday, but it is perfect for today’s extreme weather; roast pork with red cabbage.  If you are wondering where the apple sauce is, well, I burnt it, so it went in the bin!

The red cabbage is not my recipe, it’s Nigella Lawson’s and well it’s bloody brilliant.  The only person who doesn’t like it is my Mum, but she has something against red cabbage in general which I will never understand, so we can discount her opinion.  Not only does it taste good, it smells good and a little bit Christmassy, so it helps erode the January gloom.  Since it is a UK recipe it calls for mixed spice, which I have discovered is not a common spice mix here in Canada, although you can find it if you go to a decent supermarket or try an Asian or Indian grocer.  If you can’t get it, replace it with pumpkin spice, which is essentially the same mix, maybe the quantities of each spice vary, but it will do the same job.  The other great thing about this recipe is that it requires zero skill, you can’t over cook it; in fact the longer it cooks, the better the flavour, and it freezes well.

A lovely plate of food!

The last time I tried roast pork, I failed on the crackling.  It was chewy and soft.  The whole point of roast pork is the crackling, so I have been reluctant to try it again.  Aided by Leith’s Cookery Bible, one of my new Christmas gifts, I tried again.  Thinking back to my last disaster, I think I know where I went wrong; I ignored instructions that were seemingly optional.  The first being let the pork dry out.  Sounds wrong, right, because you want a juicy piece of pork?  I bought my pork shoulder on the Saturday afternoon, and as soon as I got it home, I removed it from the plastic wrap and polystyrene tray, placed it on a plate on top of some kitchen paper and placed it in the fridge uncovered.  So my advice would be if you want to roast pork, buy it the day before, so it has 24 hours to dry out.  If you buy it the same day or even the same afternoon you are going to cook it, the results won’t be as good.
 
The second rule was to get the meat to room temperature before placing it in the oven.  If your joint has been in the fridge overnight like mine had, then it will take a good 2-3 hours to get the fridge chill off it.  Change the kitchen paper if it is soaked through, and wipe/pat the meat so it is dry.

The best crackling I ever made!

Before you put the joint in, get a really sharp knife or even better a Stanley knife or one of those retractable parcel cutter blades.  Draw the blade lengthways over the skin – don’t apply too much pressure, you don’t want to go through to the meat.  Leave a gap of about 0.5cm and make the next incision.  Drizzle the skin with oil and rub in some sea or rock salt.  Be quite liberal with the salt, and you’ll get crispy, crunchy, salty crackling.  I cooked mine based on the 25 minutes per 450g/1lb rule, at a temperature of 220c/425f/gas mark 7 for the first 25 minutes, then I reduced it to 375f/190c/gas mark 5 for the remainder of the cooking time.  I think the salt and the scoring definitely plays it’s part, but it is the earlier preparation that’s the real key.

Nigella Lawson’s red cabbage

Olive oil
1 onion, halved and cut into thin half moons
1 tablespoon rock/sea salt or 1/2 tsp table salt
1 red cabbage, finely shredded
3 tbsps soft light brown sugar
375ml red wine
juice of one orange
1/4 mixed spice (or pumpkin spice)
2 eating apples, peeled and chopped into small chunks

Get the largest casserole pan you have and over a low-medium heat add a tablespoon of olive oil, then the onion and salt.  Soften the onion,  but don’t colour.  The salt helps the onion to stop catching and colouring.  After about 4-5 minutes add the shredded red cabbage, sprinkle over the sugar and pour in the wine and orange juice and scatter over the mixed spice.  Let everything wilt down for a bit and lastly add the apple chunks and stir them in.  Place a lid on top and cook at the lowest temperature possible for 2 hours.  It doesn’t really matter if you could it for longer.

Mi Mi Restaurant - Vietnamese penicillin

It’s time to erect the scaffolding, I’m in need of urgent post-yuletide restoration.  Weeks of the ‘ah sod it, it’s Christmas’ mantra, has resulted in carb induced lethargy and a Santa silhouette.  The overeating sneaks up on me.  First I’m swapping my skinny lattes for gingerbread ones with whip cream because they smell more festive.  Then there is the  chocolate advent calendar, which arguably at 30-something I should have dispensed with years ago, but refuse to, and then the mince pies.  I couldn’t find any here in Toronto (apart from a $7.50 box at the Brit shop!!) so I baked my own and you can’t (well I can’t) eat one without a slurp of cream and a wodge of rum butter.  Anyway, you get the picture, it all adds up and here I am days into January still foraging through the last of festive confections and woefully deficient of greenery and vitamins. 

So yesterday we dragged our chocolate filled bodies down to Gerrard St East, Toronto’s smaller Chinatown in search of sustenance that was as far removed from turkey and all the trimmings as possible.  We settle on Vietnamese Pho which has restorative properties much like a bowl of Jewish chicken soup or Mama’s Minestone.  Mi Mi’s doesn’t look much from the outside but a glance inside boasts an encouraging number of diners so we head in.  Shabby decor equals great food and Mi Mi’s follows that principle, although I must be fair, there’s not a plastic chair in sight.  A bright, sincere ‘happy new year’ accompanied by a corrective pot of green tea is a welcome that overrides the indifferent interior.  Regulars are acknowledged by name, kids are encouraged to watch while their juices are concocted and there is a lot of satisfied slurping going on.  Even before the food arrives, I’m estimating how many visits it might take until I’m considered a regular.  My Vietnamese must have, summer rolls, are verdant with herbs and the blush prawns stretch through the rice paper.  I’m beginning to feel more wholesome by the minute and the Pho’s not even here yet.  Jerry’s bowl is actually a basin, and I’d wager is bigger than his head.  He’s gone for an X-Large with slices of rare beef, and I go for a more dog bowl size with the addition of some brisket.  I douse mine in chilli sauce from the condiment apothecary and garnish with beansprouts, a squeeze of lime and Thai basil.  The meaty clear broth is addictive and I can almost feel the goodness permeating through me, as if melting away the Christmas excesses, one mince pie at a time.  Realistically I know that the weighing scales will probably still read the same tomorrow morning, but at least I am on the right track.  Better finish off the last of the choccies tonight so I really can make a clean start tomorrow.

Mi Mi Restaurant

688 Gerrard Street East, M4M 1Y3

1-416 778-5948

Dangerous Dan’s, Toronto - Fat drippingly good!

The Big Kahuna

If Gillian McKeith’s knew Dangerous Dan’s existed she’d be campaigning for it to be shut down. Their catchy but taunting footnote: ‘22% of Ontarians are obese, we can do better’, would be enough to make her self combust from aduki bean gas build up.  This politically incorrect restaurant in Toronto’s East End, wears its artery clogged heart proudly on its tight fitting sleeve. They make no apologies for the food they serve, in fact they positively encourage it.  Junk food tastes good, and once in a while we all like to take a break from miso soup and salads to indulge in our guilty pleasure, so why not go all out?


DD’s is the place to overload. Burgers are the menu mainstay, and you can go for a baby 8oz, but there’s really no point, you didn’t come here for a regular cheeseburger, so man up and go for a big’un. There’s the heart stopping Elvis, which comes topped with bacon, peanut butter and fried banana or how about the Big Kevorkian which comes with an excessive number of fried garnishes; fried onion, fried onion ring (because you need both, right?) fried mushrooms, fried bacon, fried sliced pickles and slathered in mayo and garlic sauce. I’m surprised they don’t fry the bun too. It’s questionable whether you need any ‘add-ons’ or side orders, but if you’ve planned ahead and worn your elasticated waistband, then by all means go for it. Gassy beer will only take up precious room in your stomach, so avoid that and instead try the equally filling traditional milkshakes made in the ultra noisy blender. For most people the above will satisfy, but we all know someone with a ridiculous appetite. They were often accused of having hollow leg syndrome or called ‘dustbin’ at school. They always had seconds, if not thirds. They should refer to the back page of the menu, reserved for ‘your incredibly excessive beef needs’ – their words not mine. The Coronary Burger Special consists of two 8oz patties, layered with 4 slices of bacon, cheddar cheese and crowned with a fried egg, plus fries, gravy and a can of pop just in case you haven’t already popped. If that’s still not enough, then you have a serious appetite that can only be sated by the Colossal Colon Clogger Combo; 24oz burger with double fried egg, ¼ lb of bacon, ¼ pound of cheese and a side order of ‘poutine’ which is a French Canadian delicacy that my friends from the north of England will know simply as chips, cheese & gravy. Gillian McKeith would have a field day examining your poop sample after that.


CCP - Cookie Cow Pie.  Pan Fried cookie dough of course!



Thai Meatball Curry

Whenever I have minced meat in the fridge it invariably gets turned into Bolognese sauce, chilli or maybe a cottage pie.  There’s nothing wrong with any of those dishes, but I wanted to do something different this time.  I had a portion of minced pork (just over 450g) left over from another recipe plus a can of coconut milk in the cupboard, and decided to go the Thai curry route.  You could make it with beef mince if you have that, but I think pork creates a richer dish.  It can be as hot as you want it.  I didn’t add any chillies, so it was only the paste creating the heat, and as a result you have a mild curry which is sweet from the coconut milk and very child friendly.  If you like it hotter feel free to add some chopped fresh chilli to the meatball mixture or fry some off along with the paste.  It’s a really easy mid-week dinner too.  You can make the meatballs in advance, even the night before, and then you just add them to the sauce which is really quick to make.

Ingredients for 4 people

For the meatballs
450-500g pork mince
1 small/medium onion finely chopped
1 egg
1 tsp. cumin seeds
1 tsp. coriander seeds
1 tsp tumeric
1 slice stale or fresh bread to make breadcrumbs.
salt & pepper
1 medium bunch fresh coriander roughly chopped

For the curry sauce
2 heaped tsps. Thai red curry paste
1 x 400ml can coconut milk
1 tbsp. lime juice
1 tbsp. fish sauce
1 tsp. sugar
2 handfuls frozen peas
chopped fresh coriander and lime wedges to garnish

Start by making the meatballs.  Add the cumin and coriander seeds to a dry frying pan and heat through for a minute or so just to lightly toast.  Shake the pan occasionally so they don’t burn.  Add the pork, onion, toasted cumin & coriander, tumeric, egg and fresh coriander to a bowl.  Whizz a slice of bread in a processor to create breadcrumbs, or use a generous handful of ready made ones if you have those.  Mix everything together with your hands until everything is evenly dispersed.  Start making the meatballs; you are aiming for smaller than golf ball bite size meatballs that will cook quickly.  This mixture should make about 30 meatballs.  When they are complete, chill in the fridge for at least 30 minutes.

Add a little oil to a shallow pan and heat to medium/high.  Fry the meatballs in 2 batches to brown them evenly.  This should take about 5 minutes per batch, they don’t have to cook through as they will finish off in the sauce.  Remove browned meatballs to one side, and add a little more oil to the pan if needed and fry the curry paste for 1-2 minutes.  The sauce is easy and quick, so have everything ready to hand before you begin.  Pour in the coconut milk and stir well to incorporate the paste and turn the sauce orangey-red.  Add the lime juice, fish sauce and sugar and stir in.  Re-introduce the meatballs to the sauce, reduce the heat to a low simmer for about 10 minutes until the meatballs are cooked through.  After about 5 minutes of simmering add the frozen peas.  Serve over rice and garnish with fresh coriander and a lime wedge.

Halloween Cupcakes & Bonfire Night Sausage Stew

These pumpkin cupcakes are good for autumn/winter and not just for Halloween.  The recipe is from the Hummingbird Bakery book, which I can’t praise highly enough.  It has proved indispensible for all things North American, and definitely justified its place in my suitcase.  The original recipe is for pumpkin cupcakes which I haven’t strayed from, and a cream cheese frosting, which I have slightly adapted by just adding a 1/2 tsp of ground cinnamon and 1 tsp ground ginger.  Those in the UK are likely to find it hard to get hold of tinned pumpkin puree, so you have two options; make regular vanilla cupcakes and make sure you add the cinnamon for the autumnal flavour, or make your own pumpkin puree.  You don’t actually need to buy pumpkin, any squash will do – even butternut squash.  Just roast it off in a hot oven, skin on for 40 minutes or so, then scrape away the flesh and blend in a processor.
 
Makes 12
For the cupcakes:
120g plain flour
140g caster sugar
1 tbsp baking powder
1 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
pinch of salt
40g unsalted butter at room temp
120ml whole milk
2 eggs
200g tinned pumpkin puree

For the cream cheese frosting:
300g icing sugar
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp ground ginger
50g unsalted butter at room temp
125g cream cheese

Heat the oven to 170c/325f/Gas Mark 3.
Add the flour, sugar, baking powder, cinnamon, salt and butter and beat together with an electric mixer until you get a something that resembles sand.  Add the milk slowly until combined.  Crack in the eggs and mix well.  Stir in the pumpkin puree.
Pour into cases so they are about two thirds full and bake for 20 mins.  They should be light and golden and spring back when touched.  Leave to cool for a bit and then turn out onto a cooling rack.
For the frosting, sift the icing sugar and spices into a bowl, add the butter and mix together until you get a sandyish texture.  Add the cream cheese and keep mixing for about 5 minutes until it turns light and fluffy.  It will take a while!

The decoration part is easier than it looks.  I stole the cobweb idea from one of the baristas at a local coffee shop, where they serve vanilla mint tea lattes (yum), with a dark chocolate cobweb on top.  You just need some decorating gel and a steady hand.  I used Wilton’s in black, then start in the middle, and draw a circle spiral, a bit like a snail.  Then using a tooth pick, start at the centre and quickly and gently draw the toothpick out to the edge.  You’ll probably need to do about 6 lines at even gaps to create the effect.  The spiders are easy.  Small blob for the head, larger blob for the body and then use a toothpick again and flick it out from the main body to create four legs either side.

 

Bonfire Night must mean bangers, and this is an easy and filling dish that will feed a crowd.  Perfect for serving in warm bowls whist you watch the fireworks in your back garden.  Happy Guy Fawkes Night!


1 large onion thinly sliced into half moons
2 peppers either red, yellow or orange, but not green, thinly sliced into strips
olive oil
2 garlic cloves thinly sliced
6-8 sausages
1 tbsp plain flour
1 tbsp tomato puree
2 tsps smoked paprika
500ml beef stock
Worcestershire sauce
1 x can of haricot (navy) beans
200g pasta shapes such as penne or fusilli
salt & pepper

Start by cutting the sausages into bite size pieces and browning them off in a pan.  Add a little oil if you need to.  Remove from the pan and set aside once they are browned – they don’t have to be cooked all the way through, as they will cook in the stew.
Add some olive oil to the same pan, and add the sliced onion and peppers.  Fry off on a low heat until they are silky soft, but not browned.  Should take about 10 minutes.  Add the garlic and cook for a further 2 minutes, stirring it so it doesn’t burn.  Add the sausages back to the pan, scatter over the flour and paprika and cook for 1-2 minutes.  Turn the heat up, add the tomato puree, stock, beans and a good dash of Worcestershire sauce.  Bring to the boil, cover with a lid, reduce the heat to low and leave to simmer for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally so that the mixture thickens.  Meanwhile cook your pasta in boiling water, strain and then stir into the stew when you are ready to eat.  Serve with garlic bread and some grated cheese.

Around Toronto in 24 coffee shops

I'm a bit of a box ticker and list crosser offer.  I'm competitive when it comes to collecting passport stamps and fridge magnets of places I have been.  As a kid I loved collecting stickers for my Panini albums and I'd glow with self importance if the teacher asked me to take the class register.  So I was quite intrigued when a friend introduced me to Toronto’s Indie Coffee Passport.  The perfect concept; a coffee treasure hunt.  The idea is simple; buy a passport for $25, visit each of the 24 participating outlets between now and the end of March, and get a free coffee worth up to $5.  Most important of all don't forget to get your passport stamp.  For me this is a great way to explore the city and catch up with my new coffee drinking, employment seeking friends.

First on the list this week was The Tampered Press over in Trinity Bellwoods. I almost walked past it trying to find it, as it is quite unassuming from the road. Inside it has regulatory coffee shop exposed brick walls and a newspaper strewn communal dining table. High stools at the wooden ledge peer outwards to the street and drink in the sun. A lone chap sits at the head of the table plugging away on his lap top, a few passers by drop in to take out, and mums drift in for a caffeine revival as their sleeping babies allow a moments relief.  There is a genuine ease to this place.

It’s a lovely warm day outside so I begin with an iced mochaccino. It was a tad too coffee-ey and not chocolatey enough for me, but it was easily sweetened with sugar which amazingly I was able to stir with an ACTUAL teaspoon and not those useless wooden sticks (how are you supposed to eat the creamy foam on your cappuccino with a wooden stick?) As the street lights begin to blink on, I order a milky cappuccino and pumpkin loaf, which comes slathered in the dreamiest brown sugar cream cheese frosting. Trundling home on the tram through the early evening city I wondered if I might be able to get my frosting to taste as good as that.

Butternut Squash & Sage Risotto

We are days away from Halloween and this neighbourhood is getting pretty spooky.  There’s an alarming number of skeletons draped on front lawns and carved pumpkin faces seem to follow me as I walk past.  This recipe is not spooky in the slightest.  It is Italian comfort food, just right if you’ve had a fright.  Although I’ve made this with butternut squash, feel free to substitute for pumpkin or any other kind of squash that you find available.

Serves 4

olive oil
1 butternut squash
1 handful of fresh sage leaves roughly chopped
large knob of butter
1 medium onion, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic; 2 crushed under a knife  and left in their skins, 1 crushed without skin
400g Arborio risotto rice
1 large glass dry white wine – about 250 mls
1 to 1.5 litres chicken stock
freshly grated parmesan cheese
salt & pepper

Start by peeling and chopping the butternut squash into bite size cubes.  Throw into a roasting tin with a good handful of sage leaves and the garlic cloves.  Drizzle with a good glug of olive oil and roast in the oven at 200c/400F/Gas Mark 6 for about 45 minutes until the squash is soft and easy to poke with a knife.

While the squash is roasting you can get on with the rice.  Melt butter in a large pan and slowly fry off the onion on a low to medium heat.  Don’t brown the onion, just let it go soft and milky.  It should take about 5 minutes, then add the final crushed garlic clove and cook for a further 1-2 minutes.  Add the rice and cook for about 3 minutes, then turn up the heat to medium high and pour in the white wine.  Let this bubble away for a couple of minutes.  Season the rice with salt & pepper and scrape any rice that has stuck.  Once the wine has all but evaporated slowly begin to add the stock – about a ladleful at a time and stir it through.  Leave for a minute or so until almost absorbed and then pour in a little more.    Keep repeating this process until you are almost out of stock.  It should take in total about 20-25 minutes.  You might not need all the stock, so towards the end of the 20 minutes start checking the rice.  You want there to be just a little bit of bite to it when you test a grain.  If it is still a little hard, then cook for longer and use the remaining stock, if you are already there then stop.

Now it’s time to add the squash.  I like to mash up about half of it and stir it through so the risotto gets a yellowy colour to it.  I keep the rest in the chunky cubes, throw those in a lightly stir through so they keep their shape.  Serve with a good grating of fresh parmesan, and garnish with some fresh chopped sage if you wish.  This also calls for a glass of cold dry white wine.