Tayyabs – East London

I mentioned a few weeks back, that I have wanted to go to Tayyabs, a Pakistani restaurant just off Whitechapel Road, East London, for a long time, and each time my plans had been thwarted.  I've lost count, but I think this was 4th attempt, Ramadan was over, so we made a reservation and I crossed my fingers, hoping it would be 4th time lucky.  Thank goodness they take bookings.  Upon arrival it is hard to see how they are going to accommodate us; the queue snakes all the way through the dining area and out onto the street and every table is crammed full of hungry diners.  The place reminds me of a nightclub.  I've never eaten in a restaurant where I've had to say 'excuse me' about 32 times, contorting myself as I scooch past the people in the queue to get to the toilets.  There is no denying it is a squeeze, but the waiters do a phenomenal job ferrying to and from the kitchen, quickly and safely transporting your food to the table.  I don’t know how they manage to do it, constantly having to run the gauntlet of drunken diners each night.  Either way if you don't like crowds and prefer a quiet, sophisticated dining experience then don't come here, because you won't like it.  Don't take your girlfriend out for a romantic dinner a deux and moan about the atmosphere and how busy it was.  I don't want to hear it because I have warned you haven't I?  Lecture over, continue reading if this sounds up your street.

     I'd been warned that the curries were nothing special and that the thing to come for was the goodies from the tandoori oven, so we purposely steered clear of the curries, with the exception of tarka dahl.  This was a decent dhal, thick in consistency and you could actual make out the yellow split peas which gave it a good texture unlike some of the more porridgey ones you can get.  Vegetable samosas for starters were fine, but things started looking up when a sizzling platter arrived with shish kebabs, tandoori chicken, and the star of the show, the lamb chops arrived.  The shish was a good warm up before the main event, the chicken was moist and well flavoured from the spicy marinade, but the lamb chops were so moreish.  They were huge chunks of spicy, meaty goodness, the kind that make cutlery redundant, and are best eaten like a true neanderthal with your hands.  I liked the rotis, and they were even better when used to mop up the dhal. 
The best bit is the price.  You can eat well for a tenner a head.  If you don't believe me, check out the picture of our bill for two.  It's also BYO, so be sure to stock up at the supermarket on Whitechapel Road before you get there.  I liked this place and only wish it were a little quieter and less 'discovered' than it is.  The food is good to excellent, although I can't comment on the curries, but if you are here for tandoori, you won't be disappointed.  Would I have stayed and queued for an hour or more if we hadn't had reservations?  Probably not, because it was 8.30 and I was hungry, but would I come back again, and visit at a less popular time (if that exists) or make a reservation?  Absolutely, without hesitation. 

Loose end Sundays

I never like feeling I've wasted a weekend.  I don't have to have grand plans; you won’t find me scaling the nearest mountain or sky diving from a tiny tin-can aeroplane, but I have to do something, and that usually involves what I like to call ‘mooching’, and no, for those not familiar with the phrase, it is not a dirty word. In order to ‘mooch’ one needs retail outlets, and preferably ones that sell whimsical things that aren’t necessary for you to function in everyday life. Supermarkets don’t really count, unless we are talking Harrods Food Hall, and neither do DIY stores, no not even Ikea. We’re talking the kind of cutesy boutiques that sell things that would fall under the ‘shabby chic’ umbrella, or funkier, prettier versions of regular items you already have at home like tin openers and door stops.  You don't even need to replace your current ones, but you know your life would become so much better if every morning you were greeted with the sight of that vintage biscuit tin or better still that gorgeous pastel pink cake stand.  I could ogle for hours and yet never buy stuff.  It’s like QVC, but I’m out and about and not on the sofa, so when someone asks you what you did at the weekend, you can actually say, 'Oh I went to blah-blah, and had a look around'.  They are always much less impressed if you say you surfed the shopping channels from your sofa, in pyjamas, drinking tea.

Last Sunday morning was a brilliant mooching day spent with my sister at the Columbia Road Flower Market in East London. A not quite Autumn, but not really Summer either day, meant the conditions were perfect for a mooch around. The street is lined on both sides with proper Cockney geezer flower sellers clamouring for your custom. They have everything from roses and lilies to herbs and bedding plants. We were on the lookout for a pot plant for Emma's new office, but we knew that lugging a giant Yucca around would severely impede our mission to wander in and out of the shops. Once our promenade down the centre of the street was complete, we about-turned and deviated to the pavement so we could get a better look at the shops. They were absolutely perfect, and I have to admit that on more than one occasion I was sorely tempted to purchase. The wholesale china shop did some brilliant cut price white porcelain pieces, meanwhile Treacle not only sold scrumptious looking cupcakes, but had a great range of vintage cookware, that left me cursing the 23kg weight limit on my baggage allowance for my return flight.

Over-excited by the array of beautiful but unnecessary items within my grasp it was time for a culinary distraction in the form of Café Columbia. This was a totally non-poncey (but therefore cool) place, only open on Sunday’s, and they've been doing the same thing for 30 years now. The offering is simple; order at the counter a bagel and choose from a variety of fillings such as traditional smoked salmon & cream cheese, breakfast bagel or cheese, asparagus, tomato and rocket and don’t forget a mug of tea. Head out the back to the courtyard garden and grab a seat if you can. Still a little bit hungry after departing Café Columbia, a few doors up is another terraced house, whose front room has been converted into a kiosk randomly selling mini pots of calamari with lemon wedges and king prawns with aioli. I can rarely say no to calamari, and this was good, crispy batter and not at all chewy. We munched along happily, eventually returning to our starting point, stopping a while to check out the trilby hat wearing double bass band outside the pub. The mooch about was coming to an end, as really there is only so long you can browse for without real purpose. We continued on via Brick Lane where there was supposed to be an Indian food festival, but as far as I could see this just involved sticking a few tables outside their restaurants, whilst the waiters were more insistent than usual that you should take a table. I told one of them that I really wasn't hungry (how could I have been?) and he told me that he could tell I was, as he could see it on my face.  Maybe he was confusing fear over hunger.  What a great sales strategy - bullying. We eventually escaped unharmed and rewarded ourselves with a much needed coffee on Brushfield Street just opposite Spitalfields Market. A perfect end to a lazy watching the world go by Sunday. I didn't actually have anything to show for my efforts, but that's not the point, at least I wasn't at home lounging around in pyjamas and drinking tea.  That could wait until we got home.

Same same but different - Review: Ba Shan, 24 Romilly Street, London W1D 5AH

Back in Blighty for a few weeks I'm determined to cram in as much as possible, checking out some new places and re-visiting old favourites.  Got my sister on the case to find a suitable central-ish venue for a casual mid-week dinner, the only brief being it had to be something Indian/Asian.  The original plan was to go to Tayyabs over in Whitechapel.  So many people have raved about the tandoori lamb chops, but I've yet to savour one.  Each time I try to go my plans are derailed, and this time it was because of Ramadan.  So pushing my upset to one side the suggestion is a Chinese on Romilly Street in Soho, Ba Shan.  The reviews all look good and Giles Coren, my most favourite food critic ever could not praise it enough.  Whatever he says goes as far as I am concerned, so no pressure Ba Shan, but you also have Mr Coren's reputation to uphold.

I don't think I have ever had a Chinese meal that didn't conform to the standard offering that thousands of restaurants in this country adhere too.  There must be a secret Chinese restaurant association that decides what the compulsory dishes must are and ensures no one deviates from this.  You might defend your local place and say that they do some great specials, but seriously does anyone ever actually order that?  No.  Let's face it, it's a giant mixed starter platter groaning with spring rolls and sesame prawn toasts, not forgetting the spare ribs and then the fun bit, the seaweed.  There's always someone in your party that wrinkles their nose at the thought of eating seaweed, but finds it surprisingly palatable when they are told it's just deep fried cabbage.  Sound familiar so far?  Then there is the pièce de résistance; the duck pancake course, which is my main reason for turning up.  Everyone overloads on the pancakes and then has no room for the sweet & sour pork, beef in black bean sauce and chicken with cashews, plus 3 other dishes and the rice mountain you forgot you ordered.  The experience is the same whether you are in Glasgow or Gloucester.

We're forever told that Chinese food here, or in fact anywhere outside China, is nothing like the real deal.  It's almost mythical, they don't tell you what it actually consists of, instead you hear the odd story about serving dog meat and monkey brains, the sort of stuff from an Indiana Jones film.  So it was with some trepidation that we arrived at Ba Shan.  It didn't get off to a fantastic start, as the jobsworth 'host' didn't appear to be in a very hosty mood.  As a party of 5 and with no round tables on offer, they had seated us rather awkwardly at a long table for 6 with one of us stuck on the end, facing no one and being a bit of a billy no-mates.  We helpfully suggested that if they removed one of the tables my sister could sit at the head of the table and all would be perfect with the world.  Alas no, instead he told us more than once that this would not work as it would make it impossible to place food on the table and that my sister would be in the way.  "Really?" We queried.  "Yes." Came the blunt response.  Oookaaaay then, we'll just do what we are told.  Perhaps we should have walked there and then, but my hunger level was far exceeding my offence levels so we stayed put and thankfully Mr Host didn't hang around.

Things improved considerably, especially on the food side, from that awkward beginning.  The menu is a little confusing if you are a used to plumping for either set menu A or B, and so a little advice from the waiting staff would have been welcome.  As a rule I don't go to restaurants with picture menus, but I was particularly grateful on this occasion.  I have to admit that we didn't stray too far into the exotic and so avoided anything with mention of ducks tongues and fish heads, and instead played it reasonably safe.  Edamame beans had been steamed over a five-spice broth, and the short spare ribs were good, but unremarkable compared to the deep fried prawns, which had been coated in crunchy mini-cubed breadcrumbs that soaked up the dipping sauce.  Pork pot-sticker dumpling with a tangy ginger dipping sauce was the other star dish from the first course line up.  The standard continued through to the mains, with a show stopper of a dish in the crab, which had a funny name I can't remember, but was one of those dishes that is a joy to eat, with your fingers of course.  The crab legs are covered in a very thin layer of batter and the dish has a spicy kick to it thanks to the dried red chillies and the generous scattering of tongue tingling sichuan peppercorns.  Chairman Mao's braised red pork, didn't look entirely appealing on the pictorial menu, looks aside though it was worth it.  The fat was velvety smooth and melted effortlessly in the mouth.  A chicken dish with cashews was a little too sweet for my liking, whilst the choy sum greens with chillies were a fresh contrast to the rich pork. 

So did I feel a little short changed having not had duck and pancakes?  Well no, I didn't.  I actually felt a little bit smug walking through Chinatown afterwards seeing other prospective diners eyeing up menus, deciding where to go, and knowing they would miss out.  Would I go back?  Yes, but only after making sure I'm in a group of even numbers so as not to upset the seating host.  Next time I promise I won't wimp out and will try duck tongues.

Italian classics - Veal Milanese & Spaghetti Napoletana

This is without doubt my most favourite Italian dish.  I always order it if it is on the menu, I always think it's a bit of a 70's classic as you don't tend to see it that much.  This was my first time cooking it at home, so I had to compete with all the restaurant versions I'd ever eaten before.  Folks in the UK will know that veal is not that common at home, especially in supermarkets, but pay a visit to your local butcher who is sure to have Rose Veal, and you won't be disappointed.  Here in Canada there was an actual section in the supermarket stocking it, so I flung a pack of escalopes in the trolley mainly because of the novelty, without really knowing what I was going to do with it.

You can eat this dish without the spaghetti, but it is traditionally served like this, and well, it's how I like it.   Regular veggies and potatoes would be fine, but I think the tomatoey sauce goes really well with it.  The Napoletana sauce aka tomato sauce is so easy to prepare, and I always make a larger batch than I need so I can store some in the freezer.  It is such a multi purpose sauce.  You can use it for home made pizzas, a quick supper with pasta or as a sauce alongside grilled chicken and fish.  This quantity makes enough sauce for 4 people, so if you want to get a batch prepared for the freezer then just double, triple the ingredients.

For 2 people you will need....

1-2 veal escalopes per person depending on their size
200g breadcrumbs
2-3 tbsps plain flour
2 eggs
salt & pepper
1 lemon

150-200g spaghetti
1 large onion finely chopped
2 x 400ml cans of chopped tomatoes
3 garlic cloves crushed
olive oil
1 tbsp dried basil or a handful of fresh if you have it.

• Start with the sauce and heat 2 tbsps olive oil in a pan on a low heat.  Cook the onions for 5 to 10 minutes - slow and low - until they are soft.  They shouldn't be coloured at all, instead they get to a stage where they have a milky translucency.  Then stir in the garlic and cook for a couple of minutes before adding the tomatoes and basil.  Season with salt and pepper and allow to simmer on a low heat for 40 minutes.  Once cooked, blend the sauce with a hand blender to a smoother consistency.
• Now prepare the veal escalopes.  The meat needs to be beaten out so it is nice and flat and cooks quickly.  So use a meat tenderiser if you have one or failing that put the meat between a piece of clingfilm and beat with a rolling pin.  Then tip the flour onto a plate and season it.  You can add some Italian herb seasonings here if you like, maybe some oregano, rosemary, basil etc.  Then beat the eggs in a bowl, and finally add another plate with the breadcrumbs.  Now you have set up your conveyor belt, simply coat each escalope in flour, dip in the egg and dredge in breadcrumbs. 
• Add your pasta to boiling water as per the packet instructions, and whilst that is cooking you can fry off the veal.  Heat some olive oil in a non-stick pan on a medium-high heat and flash fry for a minute on each side or until the coating is a golden brown. 
• Serve alongside a green salad and don't forget to add some lemon wedges to squeeze over the veal, which is essential for this dish.  Enjoy!

In the mood for comfort food

So I hear that the weather back in the UK has been a little on the gloomy side, or dare I say it autumnal?  You'll be arguing over when to put the heating back on before you know it.  Well, I'm sorry to depress you all but it has been pretty hot here in Toronto and I've been busy trying to even out my strapmarks.  So given the weather here it doesn't really explain why I decided to make this for dinner.  In my defence the skies did begin to grey over in the afternoon, but I'll admit it was totally unsuitable to be eating mashed potato in August.  Definitely one I'll be repeating when the mercury begins to plummet. 

Mashed potato is one of the founder members of the 'comfort food' movement.  Creamy, smooth and easy to eat (although a pain to prepare), it's what I hanker after when I am too lazy to be bothered to use a knife AND fork to eat my food.  For this dish I've gone for the classic Irish variation of Champ, which just means you add spring onions (green onions or scallions) to mashed potatoes.  The bean & corn casserole isn't really a casserole, I just couldn't think of a better name for it.  It's another way for me to get my fix of sweetcorn before they run out and also allowed me to road test yellow beans which they have here.  Who knew you could get yellow beans and not just green?  Well I admit it, I didn't, but I can report they taste exactly the same as green ones in case you were wondering.  For this dish I have specified using either chicken breasts or leg quarters, but to be honest if you are feeding more people it makes sense to roast a whole chicken, so just increase the ingredients to take into account your numbers.

Roast Chicken with Champ Mash, Green Beans & Corn Casserole.

Feeds 2

You will need

For the chicken...

2 x chicken breasts or chicken leg quarters (skin on)

3 garlic cloves

6-8 thyme sprigs

1 tsp dried oregano

1 lemon

2 tbsps olive oil

salt & pepper

For the Champ mash

4 medium sized potatoes

30g butter

50mls milk or cream

2 spring onions chopped

salt & pepper

For the bean & corn casserole

Kernels from 1 corn on the cob (or 150 frozen/canned)

150g french green beans trimmed

100mls chicken stock

20g butter

2 spring onions chopped

salt & pepper

• Start by preparing the chicken and getting it in the oven.  Heat the oven to 180c/350F.  Season the chicken pieces with salt and pepper and add to a roasting tin.  Leave the garlic cloves in their skins and crush them before adding to a roasting tin. Scatter on the herbs, cut the lemon into quarters and squeeze one or two over the chicken.  Drizzle with olive oil.  Depending on whether you are using breasts or leg quarters it will vary the amount of time you need to allow.  About 25 minutes for the breasts (depending on their size) and about 45 minutes for the leg quarters.  Always check it's cooked through before serving.
• While the chicken is roasting, peel the potatoes and add to pan full of cold water with a little salt.  Make sure you use a pan with a lid.  Bring to the boil for 10-15 minutes until soft, but not water logged!  Add the french green beans for approx 3 minutes at the end. Turn the heat off, drain, and keep to one side in the lidded pan.
• Now onto the beans & corn.  Melt the butter into a pan and add the spring onions and fry them for 2 to 3 minutes.  Add the corn and green beans and coat in the butter for a minute or so.  Turn up the heat and add the chicken stock, allowing it to bubble and reduce for a further 2 to 3 minutes.  Keep on a low heat until you are ready to serve.
• Back to the mashed potato.  If you have a potato ricer (Gordon swears by them and I have to admit he is right), then use that, otherwise just mash the potatoes adding the butter, cream/milk and season.  Stir through the spring onions.  Make sure you taste it and adjust the seasoning to your liking.  If you think it needs more butter or milk or cream then add some in now.
• Everything is ready to serve once the chicken is out of the oven and has rested for a few minutes.  Spoon over some of the pan juices from the chicken, but also there should be some liquid from the bean & corn dish too.

Sweetcorn is a wondrous thing

A vegetable that tastes sweet and not vegetablish at all.  Please understand that I don't have anything against your everyday vegetables, it's just that I don't yearn for carrots and broccoli they way I swoon at sweetcorn.  I've never once said 'oooh go on then, you've twisted my arm, pass me the cabbage', and it is not that I dislike eating them either, I'm pretty good at getting in my 5-a-day, it's just that sweetcorn, or to be more specific, corn on the cob, is such a pleasure to eat.  Maybe it is all that butter that has something to do with it?  Come to think of it maybe part of the reason I like asparagus so much is because of all that buttery hollandaise sauce...and cauliflower cheese I love I suppose, yes because the humble cauliflower is made so much better with the addition of, aah, cheese sauce.  Ok so, I've spotted a theme, but in all seriousness, nothing beats a corn on the cob, smothered in melted butter with plenty of salt and pepper, or maybe a bit of paprika if I'm in the mood for something different.  I always have to go back over the cob, just checking that I haven't missed a bit.  Which of course I haven't.

Luckily for me, corn is king in Canada, and we're right in the middle of the season now that runs up until October.  They sell it everywhere, it's cheap, so there are no excuses.  They don't just have the plain yellow variety either (what, you thought there was only one kind right?), nope, there's bi-colour and white as well.  The bi-colour is more commonly referred to as peaches 'n' cream, because the kernels are a mix of yellow and white.  I wondered if it was because the kernels tasted like peaches and cream, apparently not, but I do think they are somewhat sweeter than I'm used to.  I stocked up on some more at St.Lawrence Market in downtown Toronto yesterday and used some to make a zingy Mexican salad that goes well alongside any grilled meat.  We ate ours with spicy chicken thighs, but pork chops, steak or even a meaty fish like tuna or swordfish would work well. 

There's no real technique to this salad, just cook the corn in boiling water, leave it to cool and then using a knife just strip the kernels from the cob.  While you are waiting for the corn to cook, slice an avocado, half a green pepper into strips and half a red onion into half moon slices.  Sprinkle on some dried chilli flakes or add a fresh red chilli if you prefer and add the cooled corn.  Finally add some chopped fresh coriander, the zest of a lime and about half the juice.  Drizzle with some olive oil and a sprinkling of salt, give it all a stir and then you are ready to serve. 

Bohemian Brilliance in Prague

View of the castle from Petrin Park

I am not a morning person, or to be more precise I don't like getting out of bed until I am absolutely ready to. It's got to be on my terms. So as you can imagine I tried everything I could to secure a nice, comfy British Airways flight at a civilised hour, from nearby Heathrow, but try as I might to find a reasonably priced BA flight, those buggers at Easy Jet kept poking away at my conscience and being all showy off about their cheap prices. I begrudgingly gave in, reasoning that we'd be able to spend the money we'd saved on sampling more Czech beer. So that's how, after a mere cat-nap of just four hours, we dragged ourselves from the soft, warm bed (I was crying inside), and hurtled toward Gatwick in a zombie like state on a ghostly M25.

Strange babies on Kampa Island

Prague makes for a very convenient European city break, less than 2 hours flight from London, you can be supping your very own pint of pivo (beer) before lunch. I expected stark and practical architecture, a reminder of the city's Communist past, but what I got was fairytale with a Disney-Germanic twist. We opted to stay in the quieter Mala Strana district, on the same side of the river as the castle, and a pleasant 15 minute stroll through Kampa Island leading to the enormously popular Charles Bridge. The Hotel Residence Mala Strana was basic, clean and comfortable, with a fortifying breakfast buffet (perfect fuel for all that sightseeing) included in the bargain price of £53 per room, per night. You can also get kitchenette suites for a little extra price if you prefer to self cater. If you are looking for luxury, then look elsewhere, but if you aren't fussed about chocolates on pillows and don't mind a bit of walking then this fits the bill.

John Lennon Wall

Like all European cities Prague has a cheap and efficient metro and tram system but it is also a very walkable city, and so we took advantage of the warm spring weather and explored on foot. Kampa Island was just 5 minutes from our hotel, divided from the mainland by a canal (this is the Czech Republic's version of Venice...they even have gondolas) its southern tip is peaceful parkland and the northern section is built around a gorgeous cobbled square. Then it is just a few short hops up the steps to Charles Bridge (Karluv Most), which seems to be forever swarming with people. The pedestrianised bridge spans the river Vlatva, and is dotted at regular intervals with statues honouring the great and good of Prague. If you want peace and quiet to stroll and admire at leisure, then be prepared to get up early or have a very late night. Otherwise you just have to put up with the constant human traffic and souvenir sellers.

Charles Bridge in the distance

Prague's other major draw is its castle (Prasky Hrad), which sits regally upon a hill overlooking the city. This sprawling complex, contains architecture from virtually every century and is home to St.Vitus Cathedral, not to mention several other churches, palaces and halls, all built within the castle grounds. You could easily spend a day here exploring and probably still not have covered it all. Good job the tickets allow you entry for a second day. St.Vitus Cathedral (yes him of the funny jerky dance) looks like it has been crane lifted and dropped into the castle complex, and it dominates the place. The proximity of the walls surrounding it mean that you can't admire the outside from a far, but it is hard not to be impressed by this intimidating gothic building staring down on its onlookers. The skies were darkening quickly, threatening rain, so we ducked inside just in time. The inside is just as mesmerising as the outside, with a commanding central aisle and vibrant, mosaic style stained glass windows. There are of course plenty of tombs here, and the crypt is like a Who's Who of Bohemian royalty. The most famous resident is old Good King Wenceslas who has his own chapel. Turns out he really was quite a nice chap, but he met a nasty end, murdered by his not so nice brother Boleslav.

St.Vitus Cathedral

It's not on everyone's list, but if you have the time, then I definitely recommend visiting the Jewish Museum. The 300kc (about £10/$16US) entrance fee encompasses 4 different synagogues plus the Old Jewish Cemetery and the Ceremonial Hall. Prague's Jewish community was at one time one of the largest in the world. The museum not only chronicles their struggles throughout the centuries but is home to an impressive collection of artefacts. The Old Jewish Cemetery is like no graveyard I've ever seen before. It's like stepping onto the set of a Tim Burton movie. There are a staggering 12,000 tombstones, all jumbled on top of each other jostling for position, but they estimate that there could have been as many as 100,000 actual bodies buried since it first opened in 1439 to when it closed almost 350 years later in 1787. Of the four synagogues, Pinkas is the most sobering. It is a simple building that stands as a permanent memorial to all those who died as a result of the Nazi regime. Each wall has been painstakingly written upon with the names of every single victim. It is the most dignified tribute for reflection and remembrance.

The Old Jewish Cemetery

The final must-see for most visitors is the Old Town Square, home to the amusing Astronomical clock. The Old Town Square is a huge pedestrianised expanse bordered by grand buildings with peaches and cream exteriors, red tiled roofs and plenty of gold leaf. Typically there are plenty of cafes and bars, and you could do worse than take a seat, enjoy a great coffee or cold beer and people watch. The Astronomical Clock is the main draw and people start gathering in anticipation of the hourly chimes from about 15 minutes before to watch this zodiac style clock do its thing. The chimes begin with the skeleton tolling his bell and then the shutters open to reveal a parade of revolving saints, peering down on their audience below. I think they should re-name it the anamatronical clock, as there is something of a ghost-train feel to it. The chimes are then finished off with a ceremonial flourish with a trumpet salute from the clock tower roof.

With all that walking and the tough pace of sightseeing, you need to make sure you reward yourself at regular intervals with a cold Czech beer. There are so many to choose from, with both light and dark beers on offer. The main three are Pilsner Urquell, Staropramen and Budvar...which by the way has NOTHING to do with Budweiser from the US. Also worth a try are Gambrinus, Krusovice and Velkopopovicky Kozel. Czech wine on the other hand was miss rather than hit. To be absolutely fair to the Czech people, we only tried it once, a red from the Moravian region, and it was best described as thin and watery. It is possible I grant you that we tried a duff one (or maybe they watered it down for us stupid tourists), but based on that experience we opted for imported wines instead from then on.

Food wise, traditional Czech cuisine does not conjure up delicious gastronomic memories in the way that other European nations do. It's country cooking and heavy on the meat and potatoes. If you want good quality, innovative Czech food then search out the high end restaurants such as Kampa Park, or the slightly cheaper Hergetova Cihelna, where you'll pay on average £80-£90 for a 3 course meal for 2 with wine. We had a great value pub-grub Czech style lunch at the Staropramen brewery (Husa Na Verandach), where you can also do a tour. Club sandwiches and pork steaks with fresh horseradish and pickles were the order of the day, all washed down of course with an obligatory Staropramen direct from the brewery. Once you have had your fill of the local cuisine, Prague has an abundance of restaurants offering all kinds of international cuisine. Our best meal (and cheapest I might add) was at Cantina, a Mexican on Ujzed, about 3 blocks from our hotel. I knew this place would be good when we rocked up on a rainy Monday night at around 8pm without a reservation (because who needs those on Monday's right?) and the waiter ummed and aaahed for a good few minutes, working out if he could fit us in. He eventually said he would probably have a table for us in 30 minutes and that if we wanted to chance it, then we'd be welcome to wait at the bar. So we consoled our rumbling tummies at the bar with a beer and proper home fried, lightly salted tortilla chips and fresh tomato salsa. Cantina has really gone to town on the decor (that Disney guy seems to have been at it again) and the result is a really welcoming atmosphere. From outside it's the kind of place you peer into, and immediately wish you were the other side of the glass. The ceiling is covered with coffee bean sacks creating a canopy effect with washing lines draped in colourful Mexican textiles strung from wall to wall. The menu offers tacos, quesadillas, burritos and their flagship fajitas, and for those looking for a tortilla-free meal, there are plenty of salads, fish and steak options. I'm not in a self-assembly mood, so choose the pork quesadillas and Jerry tries out the surf and turf Cantina Buritto, and since I'm incapable of eating Mexican food without guacamole, we order a portion of that too. The portions are man-size, and my quesadilla is packed with well seasoned chunks of pork, whilst the buritto is brimming with prawns and steak strips. You could not accuse them of skimping on the ingredients. They magically refill our beers at the appropriate moment, and we are thankful that we don't have a long walk home as we ease our groaning bellies out of the door.

Prague was great value for money, perhaps not as cheap as it once was 10 years ago, but still cheaper than London, unless you are paying high-end prices at one of the swankier hotels or restaurants. Would I return, recommend it to friends? Yes and yes. There is plenty in this fairytale city to keep you entertained for a long weekend, and if avoid the weekends like we did, not only is it cheaper, but you avoid all traces of the great British stag party. We saw no evidence of those whatsover, and I think it was the Monday to Thursday stay that did the trick.

Stay

Hotel Residence Mala Strana

Eat
Cantina
Hergetova Cihlena
Husa Na Verandach