Same same but different - Review: Ba Shan, 24 Romilly Street, London W1D 5AH

Back in Blighty for a few weeks I'm determined to cram in as much as possible, checking out some new places and re-visiting old favourites.  Got my sister on the case to find a suitable central-ish venue for a casual mid-week dinner, the only brief being it had to be something Indian/Asian.  The original plan was to go to Tayyabs over in Whitechapel.  So many people have raved about the tandoori lamb chops, but I've yet to savour one.  Each time I try to go my plans are derailed, and this time it was because of Ramadan.  So pushing my upset to one side the suggestion is a Chinese on Romilly Street in Soho, Ba Shan.  The reviews all look good and Giles Coren, my most favourite food critic ever could not praise it enough.  Whatever he says goes as far as I am concerned, so no pressure Ba Shan, but you also have Mr Coren's reputation to uphold.

I don't think I have ever had a Chinese meal that didn't conform to the standard offering that thousands of restaurants in this country adhere too.  There must be a secret Chinese restaurant association that decides what the compulsory dishes must are and ensures no one deviates from this.  You might defend your local place and say that they do some great specials, but seriously does anyone ever actually order that?  No.  Let's face it, it's a giant mixed starter platter groaning with spring rolls and sesame prawn toasts, not forgetting the spare ribs and then the fun bit, the seaweed.  There's always someone in your party that wrinkles their nose at the thought of eating seaweed, but finds it surprisingly palatable when they are told it's just deep fried cabbage.  Sound familiar so far?  Then there is the pièce de résistance; the duck pancake course, which is my main reason for turning up.  Everyone overloads on the pancakes and then has no room for the sweet & sour pork, beef in black bean sauce and chicken with cashews, plus 3 other dishes and the rice mountain you forgot you ordered.  The experience is the same whether you are in Glasgow or Gloucester.

We're forever told that Chinese food here, or in fact anywhere outside China, is nothing like the real deal.  It's almost mythical, they don't tell you what it actually consists of, instead you hear the odd story about serving dog meat and monkey brains, the sort of stuff from an Indiana Jones film.  So it was with some trepidation that we arrived at Ba Shan.  It didn't get off to a fantastic start, as the jobsworth 'host' didn't appear to be in a very hosty mood.  As a party of 5 and with no round tables on offer, they had seated us rather awkwardly at a long table for 6 with one of us stuck on the end, facing no one and being a bit of a billy no-mates.  We helpfully suggested that if they removed one of the tables my sister could sit at the head of the table and all would be perfect with the world.  Alas no, instead he told us more than once that this would not work as it would make it impossible to place food on the table and that my sister would be in the way.  "Really?" We queried.  "Yes." Came the blunt response.  Oookaaaay then, we'll just do what we are told.  Perhaps we should have walked there and then, but my hunger level was far exceeding my offence levels so we stayed put and thankfully Mr Host didn't hang around.

Things improved considerably, especially on the food side, from that awkward beginning.  The menu is a little confusing if you are a used to plumping for either set menu A or B, and so a little advice from the waiting staff would have been welcome.  As a rule I don't go to restaurants with picture menus, but I was particularly grateful on this occasion.  I have to admit that we didn't stray too far into the exotic and so avoided anything with mention of ducks tongues and fish heads, and instead played it reasonably safe.  Edamame beans had been steamed over a five-spice broth, and the short spare ribs were good, but unremarkable compared to the deep fried prawns, which had been coated in crunchy mini-cubed breadcrumbs that soaked up the dipping sauce.  Pork pot-sticker dumpling with a tangy ginger dipping sauce was the other star dish from the first course line up.  The standard continued through to the mains, with a show stopper of a dish in the crab, which had a funny name I can't remember, but was one of those dishes that is a joy to eat, with your fingers of course.  The crab legs are covered in a very thin layer of batter and the dish has a spicy kick to it thanks to the dried red chillies and the generous scattering of tongue tingling sichuan peppercorns.  Chairman Mao's braised red pork, didn't look entirely appealing on the pictorial menu, looks aside though it was worth it.  The fat was velvety smooth and melted effortlessly in the mouth.  A chicken dish with cashews was a little too sweet for my liking, whilst the choy sum greens with chillies were a fresh contrast to the rich pork. 

So did I feel a little short changed having not had duck and pancakes?  Well no, I didn't.  I actually felt a little bit smug walking through Chinatown afterwards seeing other prospective diners eyeing up menus, deciding where to go, and knowing they would miss out.  Would I go back?  Yes, but only after making sure I'm in a group of even numbers so as not to upset the seating host.  Next time I promise I won't wimp out and will try duck tongues.